Protecting Traditional Fashion Knowledge in Nigeria: Textile Designs and Patterns

This thesis examines the protection of traditional fashion knowledge in Nigeria, focusing on textile practices of Aṣọ-Òkè and Àdìrẹ. These cultural expressions are not only central to the identity and heritage of Yoruba communities but also hold significant economic value in both local and international markets. Despite their importance, existing legal frameworks at national and international levels remain inadequate in safeguarding them against misappropriation and cultural erosion. Using a mixed-methods approach, the study combines doctrinal analysis of Nigerian intellectual property law, international legal instruments, and cultural heritage frameworks with qualitative interviews conducted with legal practitioners and fashion stakeholders. The analysis reveals that conventional IP systems, rooted in Western notions of individual authorship and novelty, are structurally ill-suited to protect communal, intergenerational, and orally transmitted knowledge. International mechanisms such as WIPO treaties and UNESCO conventions provide recognition but lack enforceable rights, while Nigeria's domestic laws remain fragmented and largely silent on intangible heritage. The case studies demonstrate how Aṣọ-Òkè and Àdìrẹ face persistent threats from cultural appropriation, mass production of counterfeits, and declining generational interest. Interviews further highlight limited awareness, weak institutional support, and a lack of trust in government mechanisms among knowledge holders. The research argues that addressing these gaps requires a culturally grounded, community-centered framework. Recommendations include community awareness programs, integrating traditional fashion knowledge into education, establishing a national registry for traditional knowledge, adopting ethical commercialization tools such as geographical indications, and pursuing a sui generis legal framework tailored to Nigeria's context. Ultimately, the thesis concludes that protecting Nigeria's traditional fashion knowledge is not only a legal challenge but also a cultural and developmental imperative. Meaningful reform must center the voices of communities, bridging law, heritage, and sustainability to ensure that these living traditions continue to thrive for future generations.